Platinum Guru

Platinum Guru is a blog on Working with Platinum. Here you will learn all about creating and repairing jewelry made with platinum. Platinum Guru Jurgen Maerz from Platinum Guild International and Brad Simon will be posting short tips and tricks as well as full length articles on various techniques, and some videos so you can see how it is done. Platinum Fabrication, Alloys, Casting, and More, we’ll have it all here on this blog to help you improve your platinum bench skills.

Learn how to size platinum rings, repair platinum jewelry, bench tips for working on platinum jewelry, casting platinum, fabricating platinum jewelry, platinum alloys, setting gemstones in platinum. The Platinum Expert is a show on the Bench Jewelers Television Network. BenchTelevision.com Watch as Jurgen Maerz explains everything you need to know to work on platinum jewelry.

The Platinum Expert is a show on the Bench Jewelers Television Network. BenchTelevision.com Watch as Jurgen Maerz explains everything you need to know to work on platinum jewelry.

Learn how to size platinum rings, repair platinum jewelry, bench tips for working on platinum jewelry, casting platinum, fabricating platinum jewelry, platinum alloys, setting gemstones in platinum.
Platinum Guru Jurgen Maerz from Platinum Guild International and Brad Simon will be posting short tips and tricks as well as full length articles on various techniques, and some videos so you can see how it is done. Platinum Fabrication, Alloys, Casting, and More, we’ll have it all here on this blog to help you improve your platinum bench skills.

BenchJewelersNetwork.com
Bench Jewelers need different tools and take extra precautions when soldering and welding platinum jewelry. Jewelers tools needed are shown. Bench Jewelers Network provides many articles and videos for Bench Jewelers.

In a platinum application, welding is different from brazing because platinum is joined together by heating the metal until it is fused together.  Therefore, as a guideline, you should weld when sizing a ring.  However, it is not possible to torch-weld different Pt alloys together as they have different melting points.

  ~Jurgen

Proper eye protection is important when melting platinum, since the ultraviolet light emitted by the glowing melt can damage your eyes.  Use only lenses that are approved by the federal Occupational Safety and Health Administration and comply with American National Safety Institute standards.  A #10 welding goggle is the absolute minimum protection for the caster, and we generally recommend a #11 or #12 lens to be safe.  Do not, under any circumstances, use regular sunglasses or other dark lenses!  Any jewelry tool supplier or welding supply house can provide you with the proper eye protection, as well as gloves and a leather apron-two other important safety items.

  ~Jurgen

Selecting the proper fuel to work on platinum is of utmost importance.  Do not use acetylene, since it has a very high carbon content and expels carbon in the flame, the platinum will absorb the carbon, leading to contamination and brittle castings.

Although propane, or LPG, is also a carbon-based fuel, it does not have the high carbon content that acetylene does, and therefore can be used for platinum.  Be aware, though, that even when mixed with oxygen, propane does not burn as hot as hydrogen and thus requires more time to melt the platinum when casting.  This longer melting time can lead to porosity caused by gas absorption or debris – a direct result of keeping the metal in the melting crucible too long. 

The most efficient way to melt platinum is with hydrogen combined with oxygen.  This fuel is carbon-free, and the high heat created by a proper hydrogen/oxygen mix melts platinum in seconds.  But even with hydrogen, a proper flame is crucial: If it’s too big, the flame will heat the surrounding crucible, adding to the melt time-and creating the same problems as those with propane.  Use as much oxygen as necessary to make a relatively small but oxidizing flame.

  ~Jurgen

Through a Glass Darkly: Protecting Your Vision – Without Limits

When soldering and welding platinum you MUST have proper eye protection.  The melting temperature of platinum alloys can reach as high as 1,780 degrees C and only #5 safety goggles will do.  However, goggles can sometimes limit your vision, which in itself can be a hazard.  What is a good solution?  Attach a protective lens to your light fixture.  Now you can view the work being done behind the lens with full vision, and maximum safety.

  ~Jurgen

If platinum is being joined to karat gold, it is important to finish the platinum segment completely prior to assembly.  Failure to do this will result in the over-polishing of the karat gold component.  Platinum will not oxidize during brazing / welding.  Therefore, the platinum finish will not be altered by the process.

  ~Jurgen

Soldering is usually required when you are working on a multi-metal piece, such as an 18K and platinum combination.  The metal with the lowest melting point dictates the method used. When installing minor components to Platinum, such as findings, soldering is preferred.  Whenever you are sizing a ring and need to use solder, use a 1700 seamless solder to do the task.  Lower temperature solders tend to show a seam.

Sizing a platinum ring is normally done with the welding method, as long as there are no stones nearby and the ring is made of platinum.

The exception here is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes.  To size a Pt/Co ring, the 1700 seamless solder is recommended.

  ~Jurgen

When soldering gold and platinum together make certain to anneal both parts thoroughly before soldering.  These metals expand at different rates when heated.  If not thoroughly annealed stress tears may develop as the metal cools.  In addition, allow the metal to cool slowly after soldering.  Do Not quench the hot metals, rapid cooling increases the stress in the metals.

~ Brad

Platinum Jewelry,Fabrication,Casting